Bandelier XC ski trails

The Low Down

Cross-country (Nordic) skiing at Bandelier National Monument is possible on two trails at the high north corner of the monument. Snow conditions can be uneven, but if the snow is good, you'll be rewarded with serene skiing to gorgeous viewpoints above Frijoles Canyon from a trailhead that's surprisingly easy to reach by car.

"Blue" trail

Getting There

Follow New Mexico state road 4 (502 on some maps) west from Los Alamos and White Rock, or east from Jemez Springs, to its junction with St. Peters Dome road. Park at the lot on the north side of the road, across NM 4 from the Dome road. The trailhead is directly across the road from this lot. For most of the winter this road is driveable in passenger cars with no problems, although you'll want 4-wheel drive or chains immediately following snowstorms.

Route Finding

Two trails depart from this point: the "Blue" trail, a short (2.2-mile), figure-8 loop ending at a fine viewpoint above Frijoles Canyon, and the "Orange" trail, a longer figure-8 loop offering round trips up to 8 miles generally between the canyon and the Dome road. Both are generally easy enough to accommodate the inexperienced skier, although there are some brief intermediate-level sections on the Orange trail. The Blue trailhead is to your left as you stand at the poster display, while the Orange trailhead is directly ahead of you.

Route finding on both loops is straightforward. The only places requiring care are at the crossover points on the loops, where you'll need to keep track of which way you're going. On both trails the crossover is about at the midway point (outbound), so that the 2.2-mile and 8-mile trails have 1.1-mile and 4-mile options, respectively, if you follow the leg returning to the parking lot rather than completing the figure 8. The homeward leg of the Blue trail merges with the Orange trail very near the parking lot.

Trail Resources

These trails are for in-line skiing only. Skating technique is not possible except in the grassy area at the trailhead. Snowshoeing is also allowed, although there are spots where the trail gets rather narrow. (It's better on a new route on the opposite side of NM 4 at the parking lot that's not entirely satisfactory for skiing.) Snowshoers are asked to stay to the side of the ski track; there's generally enough room to do this without problems, although in a few locations you'll need to dodge small snags and stumps.

Neither trail involves much elevation change, perhaps surprisingly since you're in decidedly mountainous country, but they're atop a high mesa as it merges into the mountains, and the mesa top (the remnant of a huge volcanic eruption about 1.1 million years ago) is generally flat. The trails wind through coniferous forest with frequent gentle but sudden turns. Accordingly, there are no opportunities to build up much speed on downhills, and no need or place for telemark technique. Some of the overlooks of Frijoles Canyon are highly dramatic.

Helpful Hints

Snow in the Jemez Mountains is notoriously variable, and you'll do well to call the Bandelier visitor center at +1 505 672-3861 to check on conditions before launching. There may be long stretches during the winter when snowpack is insufficient for satisfactory skiing. Best conditions are usually in January; snowpack before then is often inadequate for skiing (although it can be adequate as early as Thanksgiving in some years, and in the winter of 2006-7 has been spectacular since before Christmas), and slushy spring conditions can set in already in February, if there's enough snow. If you don't mind the slush, intermittent skiing may be possible into March.

These are good trails for waxless skis, because even with fresh snow on the ground, conditions can fluctuate over distances of literally a few yards. Marvelous powder in the shade gives way to icy spots in the sun in a manner seemingly designed to frustrate the user of waxed skis. Fortunately, the terrain is generally quite gentle, and if you wax a bit "slick," you won't have too much trouble with the short uphills even if they're icy.

Activities Allowed

XC skiing and snowshoeing; hiking in the summer. Day use only, no camping/backpacking.

External Links

• Bandelier National Monument home page