Cerro Grande Trail

The Low Down

Cerro Grande is the highest point in Bandelier National Monument in New Mexico, USA, at an elevation of 10,199 feet above sea level. You can reach its summit via a straightforward route -- "trail" overstates it slightly -- that offers an interesting contrast to the canyon-and-mesa hiking more typical of Bandelier.

Getting There

The parking lot for this hike is the same as for the Bandelier XC ski trails, which see. Coming from Santa Fe, follow US 285 north to Pojoaque, then NM 502 (NM 4 on some maps) west through White Rock to Bandelier National Monument. Do not turn into the main Bandelier site, but rather, proceed about 12 miles as the highway ascends into the mountains, first up a long, straight hill and then on a series of spectacular curves with fantastic views. On reaching the parking lot, park on the north (right) side of the road; the trailhead is adjacent to the lot.

If coming from Los Alamos, proceed south on Diamond Drive past the hospital and over the bridge above Los Alamos Canyon. You'll need to pause at a security checkpoint for Los Alamos National Laboratory, but under normal conditions won't have to stop for inspection, etc. Once through the checkpoint, continue straight on NM 501 past various laboratory sites to its end at a T intersection with NM 4. Turn right here and join the previous route; the parking lot is about 7 miles from the intersection.

Route Finding

The NPS literature on this hike (pamphlet available at the trailhead) stresses that this is a "route," not a "trail," there having been no trail construction other than provision of way points marking the general route upward. In fact, however, a perfectly serviceable, if ad-hoc, trail exists that connects the way points that the NPS has emplaced: yellow diamond reflectors attached to trees and fenceposts on the route. This trail may be a bit sketchy early in the hiking season, but by early summer, it's as clear and easy to follow as any of the monument's backcountry trails.

Follow this trail/path/route/whatever as it gradually climbs through mixed terrain, sometimes in grassy meadows, sometimes in aspen/coniferous forest. The route mixes short, steep sections with long, gentle sidehill traverses, including one downhill section that you'll roundly curse on your way back to the car. Eventually you reach a broad, grassy saddle with excellent views into Valle Grande, centerpiece of the Valles Caldera National Preserve adjacent to Bandelier. Pause here, let your lungs and legs recover from the uphill grunt, and enjoy the view.

From here your route continues to the right, up a gentle ridge line that leads directly to the summit. The summit itself, your destination and turnaround point, is in a grassy area with a prominent cairn and USGS benchmark. You'll see higher stuff ahead of you here, but there's no need to explore it: it's just treetops growing from slightly lower terrain, and you can't get to a higher point on this mountain without climbing a tree. A characteristic of the Jemez Mountains is the presence of grassy meadows called rincons on south-facing exposures, such as the one you've just climbed, while the north-facing slopes are tree-lined. So it is here; the pine trees are tall enough to give the illusion of being on higher ground, but they're really not. After enjoying the view for a while, return the way you came.

Trail Resources

Redondo Peak and the Valle Grande

Scenery on this trail is interesting, particularly once you reach the saddle. The Valles Caldera lies to the west, with the resurgent dome of Redondo Peak on the far side of the Valle Grande. The caldera rim extends north and south of the summit of Cerro Grande, although you can't see most of the north-trending rim because of foreground trees. It is hoped that eventually, you'll be able to continue north from here on a "rim trail" extending entirely around the caldera, one of the world's most spectacular volcanic structures, but until the bureaucratic impediments are removed, the summit of Cerro Grande is as far as you can go.

If you're hiking with children, this is a good hike on which to teach -- and learn -- a little about forest-fire prevention. The most destructive forest fire in New Mexico history began near here in May 2000, when a controlled burn that originated high on Cerro Grande lost containment in gale-force winds and roared down the ridge to Los Alamos, destroying over 400 dwellings before it was contained. The area devastated by the fire is generally east of the trail, but you can see traces of the controlled burn as you hike, and the drive to the trailhead goes through some highly sobering -- one would even say depressing -- burned country. National rethinking of controlled burns and fire policy resulted from the damage incurred here.

The Jemez Mountains are rich in wildlife, and Cerro Grande supports habitat for deer, elk, black bear, and even the occasional mountain lion. However, it's unlikely that you'll see any of these large animals while hiking, although elk encounters are not rare along other trails overlooking the Valle Grande. Encounters with small mammals (ground squirrels, etc.) are common, and there is a substantial bird population.

Helpful Hints

• This is a great fall hike, as the weather is very likely to be cooperative. Aspens aren't as abundant here as in some nearby parts of the Jemez Mountains, but you'll still have an excellent chance of seeing some golden leaves toward the end of September. Late spring and summer are also good for hiking, but start early in the morning; if summer thunderstorms sprout over the ridgeline, you'll be uncomfortably exposed, while if there are no storms, the sun and heat may produce a different kind of discomfort.
• If doing this route in the winter, snowshoes are more likely to be appropriate than skis; the route through the forested sections is a bit sinuous for skiing. Few sections are steep enough to pose significant avalanche hazard, but still, inquire locally before setting out on snow.
• Take plenty of water, as there is normally no running water along the trail.

Activities Allowed

Hiking, and in the winter, snowshoeing. No pets, livestock, or wheeled vehicles are allowed. Day use only; no camping on the trail or at the trailhead.

For More Information

Related WikiOutdoors articles

Bandelier XC ski trails